Are You Still Paying for International Phone Calls?

Cell phone on desk next to coffee mug with Doctor Who logo - photography by Lorelle VanFossen.According to a recent Harris Interactive/Rebtel Research Study, smart phone and web users are idiots and spending money they don’t have to call internationally.

Despite the number of free web services available to make international calls, US smartphone owners are shelling out close to $37.8 billion a year to keep in touch with foreign contacts. According to a recent survey, 21% of those with a smartphone use their device to dial internationally. That breaks down to an average bill of $156 a month.

Google Voice Stays Free In 2013 But VOIP Is $15 Billion Industry” from Forbes says that even though most people know that Skype is free, “30 million Americans pay for VOIP services and they are expected to generate about $14.5 billion in revenue.”

While we are not yet to Arthur C. Clarke’s prediction and dream of free communication world-wide, we are getting closer.

Come on, people. Get smart.

I’ve traveled all over the world and want to stay in contact with friends I’ve made in those countries. With the global nature of social media, don’t be constrained by the old boys club thinking when it comes to staying in touch across borders.

We know that this should be easier. I agree. Unfortunately, we are usually stuck calling people only on our plans, with our provider, or using the same software or app. Some charge fees for mobile phone access (2g, 3g, 4g) but are free for access with the same phones over WIFI. There are work-arounds, and these are worth exploring if you would make regular international calls like I do.

I used to use international calling prepaid calling cards and all types of gimmicks to make affordable calls internationally, but with the expansion of VOIP, there is no need for that any more. Save time and money being smarter about connecting.

I connect with my friends internationally from my computer (laptop, tablet, phone, etc.) frequently with Google Talk, Google Hangouts, and Skype. All for free. Skype is the easiest for those unfamiliar with the rest. Use their app or desktop program to place calls for free to international members of Skype. Need to call direct to a non-Skype phone, take advantage of their cheap membership prices.

I can’t recommend Google Hangouts enough. I love it. Not only can I voice, text, and video call for free to anyone in the world with a Gmail account, it features conference calling (up to a limited number for free), whiteboard, screen sharing, and more.
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Worldwide Electricity Guide and Adapter Recommendations

Having traveled all over the world lugging around computer equipment and electronics, I am always desperate to find the right connection for the right country and plugs.

To help you find the right plug for the right country and right electricity, Kropla’s Electric Power Around the World Guide helps connect the plugs for you.

Remember to also carry a converter that will convert 220v to 110v or the reverse. Add to this a 12v lighter adapter that will convert 12v to 110v while traveling in a car to keep your batteries recharged and your electronics going on the road.

For more information, see Know Before You Go: Keep Current – Power on the Road.

Know Before You Go: Keep Current – Power on the Road

cell connected to laptop for chargingYou know, when they predicted that technology would make our life easier, and that wireless would free us from the cords and cables and walls, I cheered. Now that modern technology and wireless is here, I have more wires, cords, plugins, cables, and needs for electrical sockets than ever before!

Switching to digital cameras only adds to the number of black snakes and huge black boxes, called “transformers”, I have to haul around. They certainly don’t transform my life. They add to the weight and clutter that haunts my computer and photography moments.

Taking your camera on the road means:

  • More bits, pieces, cords, and adapters to carry.
  • Confusion over which adapter and cord fits which unit.
  • Adapter plug-ins to plug into the various sockets found around the world.
  • Carrying power adapters to convert one electrical type to another.
  • Carrying surge protectors to protect delicate equipment from the different electrical inputs.
  • Pushing luggage weight restrictions and carry-on weight and size restrictions on airlines.

Let’s see if we can untangle some of the doodads we carry with us when we go, before we go.

Electrical Plugs, Converters, Inverters, and Adapters

Not only do you have to worry about the kind of electricity you will encounter on your travels, but the type of plug. While many power converter kits come with a variety of plugs, make sure you have one that works where you are going.

Interchangeable Travel Adapter KitThere are many power plug adapters that can connect your electronic device, power converter or adapter to the wall sockets across the planet. Why are there so many? Well, there is no standard. Every country has their own plug-in socket design, and some countries have more than one. Until we finally bought a couple universal plug adapters, we kept our collection of plug adapters in a small flannel liquor bag, ready to dump out all the plugs and play square peg in round hole to figure out which one will fit.

Universal Travel Adapter PlugA Universal Travel Adapter Plug is small and convenient and great when you will be traveling through various countries. You can connect your automatic power converting transformer easily without pawing through piles of plugin adapters.

And consider investing in gear that will cross electrical borders for your traveling. Examples include the Ionic 1875w, dual voltage Travel Hair Dryer, Panasonic Wet/Dry Compact Travel Razor, and many laptops which will plugin directly to the various electrical plugins. To determine if your electrical items, such as shavers, radios, hair dryers, and laptops, come with built-in manual or auto-switching voltage transformers and regulators, check the unit or manual for specifics. And remember the plugs. It may auto or manual switch electrical current, but you still have to plug the darn thing into the wall.

For those that don’t, power converters come in different shapes, sizes, and strengths, though we recommend you choose a light weight power converter to change the electricity down to what you need for the electrical equipment you travel with.

A power converter, like the Interchangeable Travel Adapter Kit or Universal Voltage Converter for Travel, changes the Universal Voltage Converter for Travel incoming electricity to one compatible with your electrical item. It changes 220 to 110 volts to accommodate a 110v device like a laptop, radio or MP3 player. They also may control the amount of wattage allowed. Choose one with a variable wattage rate, such as low and high, and use the rate appropriate for the electrical item. In other words, Step Down Transformer/Converter for Traveldon’t set it on high for a low wattage cell phone or laptop or low for hair dryers. Hair dryers require high currents while radios and MP3 players require very low currents. If you will be traveling from Europe to the United States, you will need a power converter which steps up the power from 110v to 220v to match your power needs, like the Step Down Transformer/Converter for Travel.

The key to taking electrical items on the road is to limit the number of transformers and converters. While they tend to be small, they are usually heavy and the weight adds up quickly. You don’t need one for every item you carry. Radio Shack and major computer and electronic shops also offer variable power converters with different adapters, allowing you to connect one power converter/transformer to multiple devices. Instead of taking the power cord and adapter for your cell phone, hand held computer (PDA), radio, portable music player, and other devices, just take one and take turns charging them. If you have to have two, then make sure they are small and light. It’s more important to have enough plug adapters!

If you are on long flights and will be taking your laptop, hand held, MP3 player, and cell phone with you and using them, make sure you have the connections you need to charge those with you in your carry-on. During layovers or even on the plane, you can often charge up your device when it is off. At the airport though, you might have to wait in line for the electrical socket nearest your gate. I’ve seen long lines waiting for their turn at the socket. I carry portable power options for my more important electronic devices and avoid the long lines for electricity.

In addition to a converter, consider investing in an inverter. Mobile Power Inverter 90W
A variable power inverter kit turns your 12v cigarette lighter in your vehicle into 110v power outlet. Power Inverters, like the Mobile Power Inverter 90W, Travel Power 75W DC/AC Inverter 120V, and 375W Power Inverter 2 Outlet, which features 2 outlets, can keep your 110v reliant electronics recharged and going, drawing power from the vehicle’s battery.

375W Power Inverter 2 OutletExtended use with the engine not running will drain the battery. Be sure and run the engine every few hours to keep it charged up. We like to charge our rechargables while driving so they are ready to go when we stop. If you fly a lot, consider adding a small lightweight converter with an airline adapter, expanding your sources of electricity to fuel your laptop or other electrical item.

Some PDAs and cell phones will connect via USB to laptops in order to charge themselves through the laptop. This option can shrink down the number of adapters and transformers you need. Think of ways to minimize and get maximum use from what you already have.

pocket surge protector for mobile computers and electronicsIf you are carrying electronically sensitive equipment, consider adding a voltage surge protector, especially for laptops. APC makes a Notebook Surge Protector that not only protects the computer from surges, it features protection for telephone, fax, modem and DSL lines. Many international phone lines have electrical spikes in their lines which can damage sensitive modems.

Some other portable surge protection options include the Mobile Notebook Surge Protector and Pocket Surger Protector, lightweight and portable surge protection for the road.

Portable Power

Rechargable batteries are great but what happens when you are miles away from the nearest plugin and there is no recharge in site? Then bring your own portable power along.

PowerPlus 60 Universal Laptop BatteryThere are several types of portable power units, literally extra rechargable battery sources, for you to use on various electronic and computer equipment. The PowerPlus 60 Universal Laptop Battery is a lightweight (19.6 oz) thin rechargable battery that connects to over 2000 different laptop models, emulating an electrical connection. With a footprint the size of most laptops, it slips easily under or next to your laptop. Lasting about 3-5 hours to power an active laptop, the Universal Laptop Battery uses Lithium Polymer technology, considered superior to Li-Ion and longer lasting.

iBoost Mini Battery Pack for iPodLove your music? Well, you can get many more hours on your iPod with the iBoost Mini Battery Pack for iPod. Simply connect your iPod to the Battery Pack to recharge it. There is also an External iPod Battery that will provide even more playing time for your iPod

Travel kit for Palm Tungsten T/m500/m130/i705The same applies for the Palm Handheld Computer (PDA) with the external battery recharger and the Travel kit for Palm for the Tungsten T, m500, m130, and i705 models, allowing connection with 12 volt via cigarette lighter, AC and USB power drawn from a laptop.

Check your device’s manual for alternative ways to keep the power going.

Label Everything

With all these parts, pieces, adapters, cords, cables, and electronic units, take time to give them a name before you go on the road. Label them with your name and contact information, just in case, but also label all of their attachments for what they attach to.

QL-550 Quick PC Label Printer MakerSmall power adapters sometimes list the name of the manufacturer, but if they don’t and you are like us and have multiple items from one manufacturer, which one goes with which unit? Label them.

The same applies to network cables, phone and modem cables, USB, Firewire, and all the cables you have. Firewire, for instance, has four different end connectors. Which end connects to what and for what? Label them.

You can buy an inexpensive labeling machine online or at major office supply stores or print out labels from your printer identifying which part goes with which piece. Or you can buy label paper and print them out on your printer. If you do, cover the labels with clear tape as the ink will wear off the label with time and usage.

The easier you make it to find which connection goes to which device, the less stress you will have dealing with cables and plugs on the road.

Inventory Check Your Batteries

batteriesMake a full list of everything electronic you are carrying, not only for inventory or customs, but to determine what kind of batteries or charging systems you will need as you travel.

Consider watches, computers, camera flashes, radios, flashlights, all the little things you bring that you forget about. What kinds of batteries do these items require?

Common batteries like AA and C batteries are generally easy to find, though expensive, in most parts of the world. Watch batteries, AAA, lithium, and specialty camera batteries can be very difficult to find.

Standard Batteries - AA Lithium ( 8-Pack )
If you choose to buy batteries while traveling, buy name brands. Brands you are familiar with, like Energizer, Panasonic, or Duracell. But look closely. We bought some batteries in Prague that we were sure were Eveready and upon closer inspection they looked identical to the real ones but the name was Everyready. Knock offs. They might be fine, but you are trusting these to get you through a day of taking precious photographs! Don’t do it.

Rayovac and other battery manufacturers have come up with state-of-the-art rechargeable batteries that can recharge in 15 minutes to 1 hour. We’ve tested these and they seem to do well, except under heavy use of flash in our small digital camera. The fast recharge time keeps us going. The small recharger is lightweight and slips easily into our suitcase.

Put fresh batteries in all your electrical gear just before you leave and make sure you have spares. Don’t waste your precious travel time searching for batteries or film – bring extras and enjoy yourself.


Magellan's Travel Supplies

Electricity on the Road Resources

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Know Before You Go: VAT Refunds

Luggage Tags on our suitcases, photograph by Brent VanFossenDid you know that as a tourist shopping in a foreign country you can get a refund on the sales tax or VAT (Value Added Tax) on your purchases when you leave the country?

You can. With a minimum total purchase, often equivalent to about USD$100, made at a “tax-free” or “tourist” shop, and a form provided by the shop, many countries will refund you the amount of tax paid.

Find out what the minimum purchase amount is in the country you are in by checking guide books or on the Internet before going. We recommend checking before you travel so you can be prepared for the process. It can be a bit of a process. Some places have rules and regulations that will make your head spin, so make sure you know what the rules are before you leave home.


Book your flights and hotels online NOW!
As you are shopping, if you decide you want to make a big ticket purchase, check the front windows, door, and exterior of the shop as well as around the pay counter for a sign that indicates this shop is a VAT Refund qualified and designated shop. Some countries feature a Tax Free Shopping sign.

We recommend you carry a distinctive colored envelope in your pack or purse to store the paperwork you will get with each purchase. Keep it with you. Write the following information on the envelope, especially if you cannot keep your passport with you after your arrival in the country (some hotels are required to keep it for you), or you choose to leave it in the hotel’s safe deposit box.

  • Your passport number
  • Passport issue location
  • Passport issue and expiration dates

Always carry two pens with you for taking notes as well as filling in the forms.

Fill in all the blanks in the form. When asked if you would like a refund by mail (check), credit card, or cash, choose cash or credit card for speed and security. If you choose check or cash, upon your arrival at the airport for departure, before going to the ticket counter check with an official on how to handle the refund. Different countries and airports have different procedures.

We don’t offer this tip lightly. In the United States, the average sales tax on purchases is around 10% of the total purchase price. In Israel, it’s 18%. Belgim is 21%. Sweden is 25%. Italy is 20%. That adds up to a LOT of money that you can get back before leaving the country.


Magellan's Travel Supplies
And enjoy the savings on your trip! There’s a helpful article on Frommers about VAT Refunds, also. For more information, check with the main corporations behind international sales tax refunds in the EU at Global Refund and Premier Tax Free

International Travel Helpers

International Travel Helpers

By Lorelle VanFossen

We’ve included a few tools here to help you with your international travels. This page uses JAVASCRIPT so if your browser is not up-to-date, these may not work.

Time from Distance and Speed

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Distance from Speed and Time

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Distance is (select unit before calculating):


Speed from Distance and Time

Enter distance value and unit:

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Height and Weight

Height (inch or cm): onchange="convertInchCent(this.form.cvHeight, this.form.inches, this.form.centimeters);"
onblur="convertInchCent(this.form.cvHeight, this.form.inches, this.form.centimeters);" />
Inches:
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Weight (lbs or kg):
Pounds:
Kilograms:
Click out of the box to calculate


Temperature Conversion

Fahrenheit:
Celcius:

Length Equivalents
First, type the number you wish converted here:

Then, click radio buttons for desired conversion:
From: Centimeters
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Mass Equivalents
First, type the number you wish converted here:

Then, click radio buttons for desired conversion:
From: Kilograms
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Grains
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Troy Ounces
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Troy Pounds
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* Also known as Apothecary Ounces and Pounds
Area Equivalents
First, type the number you wish converted here:

Then, click radio buttons for desired conversion:
From: Square Meters
Square Inches
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Square Yards
Square Rods
Square Chains
Roods

Acres

Square Miles
To: Square Meters
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Square Miles


Acceleration Equivalents
First, type the number you wish converted here:

Then, click radio buttons for desired conversion:
From: cm/sec/sec
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To: cm/sec/sec
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Velocity Equivalents
First, type the number you wish converted here:

Then, click radio buttons for desired conversion:
From: cm/sec
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To: cm/sec
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More Conversions

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The more I traveled the more I realized that fear makes strangers of people who would be friends.
Shirley MacLaine, "Don’t Fall off the Mountain," 1970

Jerusalem: Just Outside the Walls

There is much to photograph in and around the walls of the Old City. This article is designed to only cover the Old City, but close to the various gates you will find some interesting photographic opportunities. Here is a sample:

Jerusalem Cemeteries

View from the Muslim Cemetery onto the Kidron Valley, Jerusalem, photo by Lorelle VanFossenTo the east, accessible through St. Stephan’s Gate (Lion’s Gate), you will find an interesting Muslim/Arab Cemetery. Much of it is abandoned and in ruin, but some renovation occurs from time to time. Take care to not disturb any of the graves and be subtle in your photographic efforts as some may not appreciate your presence in the cemetery, especially during times of political tension. Avoid visiting the area on Fridays and during Muslim prayer times. From the cemetery are excellent views of the Kidron Valley (Valley of Jehoshaphat) and Mt. Olives and Mt. Scopus.

If you have a car, you can travel to Har Hamenuchot (Mountain of Rest) not far from Yad Vashem. It is the largest Cemetery and it covers much of the mountain top in western Jerusalem. Other smaller cemeteries are found through out Jerusalem, some ancient with names barely visible on the stones, other new, shining white and pristine. Take care not to intrude or disturb visitors as you photograph, and be prepared to be told to put away your camera, but for the most part, you may photograph if the cemetery is empty.

Around the Gates and Wall of the Old City

During the holy days, you will find many of the religious wearing traditional clothing. Jaffa Gate, photo by Lorelle VanFossenAll around the gate areas of the Old City you will find many interesting scenes and people. Jaffa Gate is a very popular entrance, close to the Christian, Armenian and Jewish Quarters, and one of the few entrances through which cars are allowed. You will find interesting people, in ceremonial and traditional clothing during holidays and holy days coming and going through these entrances. Lion’s Gate is the beginning of the Via Dolorosa and the entry way for many religous processions following the last walk of Jesus. Damascus Gate hosts a huge market area outside of the wall on most days offering a colorful spectacle of people and wares. Dung Gate is the southern entrance into the old city and leads directly to the Western (Wailing) Wall. During religious holidays, this gate is also a popular entrance for colorfully dressed groups.

Holy Sites

Looking out of the Old City towards the Mount of Olives, cemetery and Mormon University. Photo by Lorelle VanFossenChurches, synagogues, and cathedrals are found throughout the Old City and within a few blocks around the Old City. Some are open to the public and may allow photography. Ask if you are in doubt. The Mt. Zion area is interesting with David’s Tomb, the location of the Last Supper of Jesus, and other religious and historical sites. The area of the Garden Tomb, north of the Old City from the Damascus Gate, is considered by some Protestants to be the actual crucifixion and burial site of Jesus, offers a more natural and scenic area.

Museums

Jerusalem has more than its fair share, appropriately, of museums. There is a museum for just about any interest, from religious relics from the different religions of the world to archeological remains from all the periods of the world. They also have a wide range of modern museums dedicated to Jewish and non-Jewish art and more modern tastes. Two museums bear special mention and should be on your "must see" list. First, YadVashem is the famous Holocaust Museum. Under massive renovation and construction since the beginning of 2000, it is still an amazing museum that steps into the horrors of Hitler and the Nazi devastation of the Jews of Europe and elsewhere.

Yad Vashem offers interesting perspectives on journalistic and historical photography. Photo by Lorelle VanFossenFrom a photographer’s perspective, the historical museum offers amazing stories behind the photographs, as well as stories about the photographers themselves. In one display, a German photographer was permitted to spend a few hours (on his day off) in the Warsaw Ghetto and photograph whatever he saw. As you walk across the bricks from the Ghetto, his images tell the story of the horrors of life there. Starving children, unable to stand, lying by the side of the road waiting for death. Old people, maybe not even 40 years old but aged by their situation, stare empty-eyed into his lens. The Germans were meticulous about recording everything they did on paper, and through the camera, so many of the images displayed come from Germans and Nazi documentation. For photo journalists, this is a master’s class in photographing man’s cruelty.

Children Memorial at Yad Vashem, photo by Lorelle VanFossenOutside of the historical museum, Yad Vashem has a lovely park with other memorials in the form of statues, artwork, and trees. Trees are planted all around the hillside honoring those who gave their life, money, and time to saving European Jews. In spring, many of these bloom in gentle pastels of white and pink. While currently under drastic construction and improvements, much of it is still accessible. The construction is supposed to be complete by 2003 was completed in 2005, making it not only the largest museum of its kind, but the most extensive archive and resource for Holocaust material and studies.

Mosaic Floor, Israel, photo by Lorelle VanFossenThe Israel Museum is another highlight to see. While some of the exhibitions change from time to time, in general it is dedicated to the history of the Middle East and Israel with artifacts from many of the holy sites and archaeological ruins around the country. Photography is usually permitted through much of the museum, though not by professional photographers without permission. Pay attention to warning signs restricting use of a camera. In the outdoor courtyards are found many columns, mosaics, and stone carvings allowing for closeup photography of intricate stone work. Working in direct sunlight, consider using a diffusion cloth and/or fill flash.

Jerusalem: Perspectives of the Old City

Churches and mosques from the rooftop of Jerusalem, photo by Lorelle VanFossenThere are many different ways of viewing the myriad perspectives of Jerusalem. If there are any specific symbols that represent Jerusalem, among them would be scenic views of the city with the golden Dome of the Rock highlighted, Orthodox Jews with their long beards and black hats and suits, and the Western (Wailing) Wall. But for each visitor and resident, Jerusalem means many things. Here are a few more interesting perspectives to help you tell your story and find your perspective on the Old City.

Streets

Many of the streets are sloped, allowing for interesting perspectives looking up the slope or down over the view through the street towards interesting Looking up a sloped street in Jerusalem. Photo by Brent VanFossenbuilds. Look up and see interesting overhanging “window boxes”, small rooms built out from the wall to provide more room within, and often to increase the light coming into the home. Interesting stone arches connect buildings and support walls throughout the city, casting shadows onto the narrow streets. Laundry can be seen drifting in the slight wind hanging from windows and balconies.

As with any old town, pay attention to the stonework and the electrical wires criss-crossing the walls. Shop signs are fascinating with their combinations of English, Hebrew, and Arabic. Grafiti isn’t common, but it is found from time to time, often political in nature, but usually teenagers expressing themselves in all three languages in many different colors.

Long lenses allow isolating the specific subjects of interest, and wider lenses allow for street scene perspectives. A flash is recommended, including fill flash for filling in harsh shadows.

Photo Resources in Israel
In Jerusalem, you can find many photographic supplies at shops scattered through the marketplace of Jerusalem and in the pedestrian mall of Ben Yehuda Street in the new center of the city.

In Tel Aviv, around the intersection of Ben Yehuda and Allenby you will find many professional camera shops within a block or two in all directions.

For serious professional assistance and supplies, the Brothers Judean is located at 10 Ben Yehuda, down a small alley-like stairway to the west. It can be hard to find. Look for the sign down the narrow break next to a building atop the open staircase going down. For more information call 03-517-4829 or email jugend@inter.net.il. Web: jugend.co.il

Rooftop Views

Jerusalem is a city of levels, some going deep below the surface of the streets and others going high above them. There are many access routes to the rooftops of the city, but most are hard to find in the maze of back streets. One easy-to-find roof access is just off Habad Street south from David Street. As you walk up the slope from David Street, you will come to St. Mark Street on your right. To the left you will see a metal staircase going up. This takes you to a safe roof top area. Walk north up a slope in the roofs and turn left (west) to a raised roof top creating a large platform. One of the highest points within the area, it offers a dramatic view of the Al-Aska Mosque and Dome of the Rock with Mt. Olives and Mt. Scopus rising up in the background.

Sunrise is excellent for the warm, golden light touching the many minarets, domes, and cathedral towers. Sunset light illuminates Mt. Olives and Mt. Scopus, turning the Dome of the Rock into a glowing golden ball. Arrive at the top of the hour, especially at 9:00 AM and noon and the ringing of the bells will vibrate to your bones, and your hair will stand on end as you listen to the bells blending with the Muslim calls to prayers.

From the rooftop of Jerusalem, photo by Lorelle VanFossenDo watch your step and take care not to trip on any of the rubbish or fall off the roof edges. Most areas are protected with railings, but do take care. Speak softly as your voice can easily be heard by those living below and around you, and take care not to stomp too hard or make too much noise to bother those below.

In addition to the views, again, look for photographic details like curtains in the windows, laundry drifting in the wind, and patterns and textures in the stone walls, electrical wires, and building details. You can use a variety of lens lengths here to capture the wide angle views around you as well as using long lenses to concentrate on the distant details.

Tower of David Museum/Citadel

Originally a citadel, or fortress, built in the Herodian period, then destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries, next to Jaffa Gate is the Tower of David Museum. Pilgrims used to mistake the 17th century Turkish minaret along the southern edge of the fortress as part of the ancient tower of King David. Thus it became known as the Tower of David, though Israelis use its traditional name of the Citadel. Crossing the ancient moat, one steps back Jaffa Gate entrance, Jerusalem, photo by Lorelle VanFosseninto the 5,000 year history of Jerusalem. You can easily spend hours exploring the restored fortress and all the exhibitions within. English films and tours are available. Call for specific times.

The central courtyard is an archeological ruin providing interesting photographic opportunities. Climb up and walk the ramparts and the high towers for some dramatic and interesting views of the new and old parts of Jerusalem.

The walls are very thick and offer interesting pattern possibilities. They also keep the temperature cool, so bring a sweater or sweatshirt even during the summer if you are prone to the cold. Bring a flash to photograph within the rooms of displays (ask permission first) and to overcome any bright sunlight outside. Due to the high walls, the courtyard is in shadow much of the day except midday. Use caution with a tripod as the walkways are narrow and can be crowded on busy days.

The Ramparts

Men in the Arab section sit around and smoke hassish and talk for hours in the cafes. Photo by Lorelle VanFossenThe Ramparts are the wall sections around the entire Old City. There are two sections of the city wall which are accessible: The North side and the West and South sides. The Northern section begins at either Jaffa Gate or Damascus Gate. The Western and Southern section begins either at Tanners/Dung Gate or by the Tower of David and Jaffa Gate. Walking along the top of the wall offers some interesting perspectives on the Old City as well as the surrounding new city area. There are some very high steps, but in general it is an easy walk.

Long lenses will isolate interesting views of the buildings and towers, and moderate to wide angle lenses will give you a wider scenic view. Opening at 9 AM, during the winter you can catch a bit of the warm morning light, or take advantage of winter clouds for gentler light. Winter allows for some sunset light when the sun sets early, as the wall closes at 4PM. The Stone window along Via Dolorosa, photo by Brent VanFossenwall can be windy as it is exposed, and during the summer it can be very hot with direct exposure to the sun. It is narrow in places, so take care if using a tripod.

Doors

The doors, windows, and walls of Jerusalem are fascinating. Especially the doors. Some are ancient, some are just worn from use. All offer great photographic Door to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, photo by Lorelle VanFossenopportunities in color, texture, and patterns. A moderate to wide angle lens is recommended as the streets are narrow and you can’t move back very far. Fill flash or full flash will help fill in some shadows and low light areas. A tripod is a must for longer exposures in the low light. Look for interesting door knobs, locks, handles, door bells, knockers, and address blocks or tiles. The styles of the doors and architecture changes from area to area, with the newer and more substantial looking doors found in the Jewish Quarter and the older looking doors found in the Arab areas.

Jerusalem’s Old Markets

Inside a shop of various cermanics and textiles in Jerusalem. Photo by Lorelle VanFossenThe market areas of the old city represent the heartbeat of the area. During the morning and afternoon they are filled with people shopping, browsing, and passing through on their way to home, work, prayer, and social events.

Several market areas are worth exploring within the old city. These market areas, many dating back hundreds of years, feature amazing architecture and are stuffed to overflowing will all kinds of fascinating items. As you wander the streets, don’t just stop at the entrance. Look deep within the shops to find interesting ceilings, walls, and merchandise worth exploring. Some shops are deep and long, featuring a wide range of products not visible from the street. Most shopkeepers speak English. They will invite you in, so take advantage of the offer and explore their diverse goods, looking for colors, textures and patterns to photograph.

View of the Dome of the Rock from the sloping streets of Jerusalem, photo by Lorelle VanFossenLook up into the roofs and ceilings of the market "halls" (streets) to find interesting patterns and textures. From the many sloped streets you will find interesting perspectives looking out across the old city through the narrow confines of the streets.

Pay attention to details as well as scenic perspectives. Examine the stone construction of the walls, street, and ceilings. Note the complexity and confusion of the power lines as they crisscross the streets and walls looking for ways in and out of the buildings constructed long before electricity was even imagined.

Wood carving merchant is proud of his wares. Photo by Lorelle VanFossenMany merchants, with permission, do not mind people photographing their wares, but politeness also begs that you actually pay attention to their wares. Spend a few minutes in the shop, and talk to the shopkeeper about his business, and you will often receive not only permission, but possibly the invitation to sit and share a tea or turkish coffee over conversation, making the experience pleasant for all. If you are not in a mood to purchase or chat, make sure your photographic endeavors do not interfere with their business.

Damascus Gate Market, Jerusalem, photo by Lorelle VanFossenDamascus Gate is a prime area for photographing the market activities. Explore inside and outside the gate and along the outside of the northern wall. They sell everything and anything and it changes from day to day. Colors, patterns, and textures create anarchy before you. Take care to simplify your composition to create more dramatic images. Be cautious about obviously photographing the Moslim women, but the men don’t seem to mind. Ask if you feel nervous about what you are doing. Most of them speak English, or one or more of the languages of Europe. A few words of Arabic will get you big smiles, too.

Things to look for…
The markets of the Old City provide a kalidoscope of colors, textures, and patterns. Some key items to look for include: handmade baskets, loofas, embroidery, fruits and vegetables, herbs, spices, rugs, Turkish candies and sweets, Arabic writing on signs and buildings, fabric from around the world covered with beads and texture work, jewelry, small rustic metal boxes, wood carved boxes, intricate mother of pearl and abalone wood inlaid chess and backgammon sets, loafs of bread, shoe repair shops, stone and silver carved handled knives, colorful head scarfs, Indian clothing and scarfs, unique patchwork quilts, huge embroidered black pillows with bright reds and purple needlework, and all variety of ceramic work including tiles and plates.

Look up and look down as well as all around. The merchants display their wares from the ceiling, along the walls, and crowded around their doors. There are many subjects to photograph along the market streets, and don’t forget to capture a picture or two of the blatant tourist offerings including t-shirts saying things like "My grandparents went to Israel and all they brought back was this t-shirt" and "Israel Army". Some even include reproduced famous mosaics and artwork from Israel. A touch of the modern in such an ancient city.

Howard West, father of Lorelle, dresses up like a Palestinian. Photo by Lorelle VanFossenHave fun with your exploration of Jerusalem. Have someone in your party dress up as Arafat or a Jordanian in a traditional headscarf, or drape themselves in colorful scarfs. Or photograph people or your fellow travelers as they pick up the various items and explore the marketplaces. A person dressed in western clothing next to traditional Arab clothing provides an interesting constrast and helps tell the story of the new meets old.

During prime shopping times in the morning and late afternoon as people head for home, Damascus Gate and the surrounding Arab market areas can be overcrowded. Take Carts haul through the narrow streets of the old city, photo by Lorelle VanFossencare to keep your equipment close to you and out of the way. Keep watch for workers hauling supplies through the street in oversized carts, occasionally pulled by a donkey. There are many garbage collecting or street cleaning micro-vehicles that cruise through the narrow streets at high speeds, crowding everyone to the side with little regard for safety. Security checks are usually found near the Dome of the Rock and Western Wall, but occassionally there will be random inspection checks. You may have to open your bag for inspection. Just stay calm and answer their questions politely.

The Arab quarter and throughout Jerusalem you will find many Arab beggars, photo by Lorelle VanFossenExplore the area outside of Damascus Gate as well as inside the gate and down the staircase street. At the base of the main street it splits into a Y. Head towards the right, southwest, along Suq Khan e-Zeit, to explore more of the Arab street markets and shops. If you head straight onto El-Wad Road, you will connect with Via Dolorosa, and eventually straight on to the Western (Wailing) Wall.

In the middle of the Old City are the biggest "suqs", or markets. Suq el Attarin and Suq el Lahhamin parallel each other and are filled with tourist shops as well as shops offering spices, toys, clothing, fabric, sweets, pharmaceuticals, household products, music, and everything and anything. For most living in the Old City, this the key source for their household items.

Beduin designs trinkets and jewelry in Jerusalem, photo by Lorelle VanFossenThe streets connect with David Street which heads west to Jaffa Gate. This street, which becomes Bab el-Slisileh Street (Street of the Chain), heads east to connect with El-Wad Road. Along David Street and Bab el-Slisileh you will find merchants offering traditional tourist fares such as wood carvings, scarves, silver work, chess/backgammon boards, jewelry, and religious items. Few products actually come from Israel or Palestinian workers. Most come from other Arab lands like Syria, Iran, Iraq, and Egypt. You will also find a lot of clothing and handiwork from India.

Examples of embroidery work, photo by Brent VanFossenDo look for hand cross-stitch work, usually found on pillow coverings or small bags, often in vivid primary colors featuring flower-like swirls and geometrics. These are often made by Palestinian or Beduin women. Red is a favorite color, often embroidered against black or upon various shades Brightly colored woven rugs and blankets, photo by Brent VanFossenof red. They also create rough but lovely woven rugs and blankets, along with embroidered and applique patchwork quilts.

Beduins also specialize in intriguing, rustic stone jewelry. Some feature intricate silver work around the polished stones. Some of the work is also featured in small boxes of rough silver covered with small stones. Some shops feature tile and ceramics done in some of the lovely traditional arabic styles. A few shops offer to have your name scribed onto a tile (to be mailed or picked up later after final firing) in English, Hebrew, or Arabic.

Indian dresses in Jerusalem, photo by Brent VanFossenOther photographic elements to watch for include the various colors, textures, and patterns of the nuts, spices, fruits and vegetables, and even the great trays of sweets and candies. Use a macro or medium length lens to get close enough to fill the frame with the patterns. Fill flash might be needed for low light situations and dark shadows. Along with the interesting textures of the stones in the walls, pay attention Pomogranetsare colorful and wonderful to photograph, photo by Lorelle VanFossento the details of the doors as you explore the area. Even if the shops are closed, their metal or wooden doors with worn painted metal bars and ancient locks create dramatic images.